Engineered timber flooring

What engineered timber is

An engineered board is two layers glued together. The top is a slice of real hardwood, called the top layer or lamella, usually European oak. Underneath is a plywood or timber core laid in cross-directions, which stops the board moving as much as solid timber does when the air gets humid or dry.

Boards are usually 14–20mm thick, with a top layer of 2mm to 6mm. Most of ours are tongue and groove; some click together. They can be floated over underlay, glued to the slab, or on some ranges secret-nailed to a timber subfloor.

The top layer is the number to check. It decides whether the floor can ever be sanded back.

Is it right for your home?

It suits you if

• You want real oak and the look of a timber floor, in a house or an apartment.
• You’re laying over a concrete slab. Engineered is far easier on a slab than solid timber.
• You want herringbone or chevron in real timber.
• You’d like the option of one or more sands in future (top layer and range permitting).

Think twice if

• It’s for a bathroom, laundry or anywhere with a floor drain. None of our engineered ranges allow it.
• You have big dogs and don’t want any marks. European oak is roughly half as hard as Spotted Gum, so claws and chair legs show.
• Your kitchen benches would sit on the floor. A floating floor can’t go under fixed cabinetry.
• You want a floor you can mop wet or steam clean. Timber needs a damp mop and a neutral cleaner.

How it compares

Sanding by top layer (as a rough guide): under 2mm, buff and recoat only · 2mm, about one sand · 3mm, one to two · 4mm and up, three or more. Some manufacturers void the warranty if the floor is refinished, so check before you plan on it.

Grades and finishes, explained

Grades (Prime, Select, Natural, Rustic). These describe how much natural character shows: knots, colour variation, sapwood. They are not a strength rating, and no Australian standard defines them, so one supplier’s Select can look like another’s Natural. Compare real boards in a showroom.

• Prime: few knots, calm and even.
• Select: small to medium knots.
• Natural / ABCD: the full range, including filled knots. Hides everyday marks well.
• Rustic: the most character.

Lacquer or oil?

• UV lacquer is a hard factory coating. Lower maintenance. Most of our oak is matt or ultra-matt lacquer.
• UV oil / hardwax oil soaks in. It looks more natural and small marks can be spot-repaired, but it needs more care. A few of our oak ranges use a UV oil finish.

What changes the price

We don’t publish prices, because the same floor can cost very different amounts to lay in two homes. These are the things that move the number:

• The board itself: top layer thickness, width and length, and grade.
• Pattern: herringbone and chevron take longer to lay and need more extra boards.
• The subfloor: an uneven or damp slab needs grinding, levelling or a moisture barrier first.
• Install method: glue-down takes longer than floating and uses adhesive.
• What’s there now: removing carpet, tiles or old timber, and disposal.
• Finishing: skirting refit or scotia, door trimming, trims and stair nosings.
• Stairs: priced separately.